The Golden Circle
The Golden Circle is one of the most popular destinations in Iceland. It has something for everyone with tons of offerings and several ways to slice it. While many make it a day trip from Reykjavík, opting to stay overnight gives you more time to explore. Additionally, you can join a tour or drive yourself around this well-labeled and beautiful area.
We chose to rent a car from Reykjavík’s bus terminal and head out on our own. Using Google Maps (and our international plan) we easily found everything. Sites were well marked, and signs were in English. Furthermore, if you’re coming from the US, driving is on the same side of the road. Since we visited in the winter, we opted for a 4×4 SUV to help with the icy roads and snow. This was an excellent choice.
We chose to sleep on the Golden Circle for two nights at Blue View Cabins. This luxury cabin both fit our family of five and offered us the perfect location to catch the Northern Lights. However, as mentioned in my previous posts, the fickle Icelandic weather had other ideas.
As I said in my South and West Iceland post, there is some overlap with the Golden Circle. So be sure to read both posts when making your itinerary. The activities below spanned three days and two nights on the Golden Circle.
The Lava Tunnel
When you hear Iceland is the land of fire and ice nothing highlights that more than walking through an ice cave one day and a lava tunnel the next. The Lava Tunnel is a quick drive from Reykjavík towards South and West Iceland. In short, it seems all roads lead to Olfuss. Fascinating is not a strong enough word to describe this naturally formed tunnel.
From its vertical ice formations to its snow drifts from tunnel holes above it was simply incredible. Plus, there were no bats because there’s no echo. But wait, there’s more! NASA even came here to study the living white bacteria that they’re researching on Mars (!). The Lava Tunnel was one of my favorite stops of the week.
Þórufoss – Thorufoss Waterfall
Located in Thingvellir National Park, Þórufoss or Thorufoss was our first Golden Circle waterfall stop. As mentioned before, when chasing Icelandic waterfalls, make sure to include “parking lot” so it brings you to the correct location (trust me). Thorufoss herself is located a short hike down a path past the parking lot. However, you can also walk straight across the flat parking lot and catch a glimpse. I opted for the easy way and behold, Þórufoss.
Öxarárfoss and Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park
Still in Thingvellir National Park, we continued our theme of WITW (where is the waterfall?) at Öxarárfoss’ parking lot. We followed the herd of people to another icy trail (no thank you) and then learned a different parking lot offered a five-minute walk to the fall. See – put “parking lot” into your map (learn from this cautionary tale!). While we missed the great waterfall view, we enjoyed Almannagjá Gorge and its famous tectonic plates. In the summer this is a vastly different experience and one that is absolutely stunning!
Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Bakery – Rye Bread Experience
We were SO excited for Laugarvatn Fontana’s Geothermal Bakery Rye Bread Experience and geothermal pools and saunas. It’s safe to say we’ve never experienced anything like this before. Using heat from the naturally forming steam (and an ancient family recipe), you can witness Laugarvatn Fontana baking their famous Icelandic rye bread in the ground.
The rye bread mixture is put into a metal pot, sealed in plastic wrap, and buried under a pyramid of dirt at the boiling water line. Twenty-four hours later it’s exhumed perfectly spongy and beyond delicious. It’s then brought inside, sliced (still steaming), and served with locally made butter and locally caught arctic char. It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen and so delicious I don’t have words to describe it. This was another trip highlight for us.
Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths And Steams
Following our rye bread experience, we changed into our bathing suits and ventured into Laugarvatn Fontana’s geothermal heated pools. With several to choose from – each at a different temperature – we didn’t want to leave. Add in the gorgeous view of the mountains surrounding the lake, plus the heat of the water juxtaposed with the chill in the air, and it was just perfection. We absolutely adored Laugarvatn Fontana. Give yourself a few hours here to enjoy all their offerings, including their café with fresh, local products.
Geysir Hot Springs
Geysir is where the first geyser… geysered. It’s the granddaddy of all sprays, home to the first. Not to mention, it was freaking cool! While the OG Geysir is now old and tired (like me), its neighbor – Strokkur – has taken center stage. Here you’ll find steam shooting up to 130 feet (or 40 meters) in the air about every eight minutes.
But first, let me take a step back. As you approach the site (right across from the parking lot), you’ll pass mini geysers and puddles of boiling water. Looking around you’ll see mountains and water at a roaring boil, offering a total Strega Nona vibe. It was insane. Not to mention as you continue along, steam emanates from the Earth in every direction.
The path takes you past the namesake and all the small ones too. But then you hear a pop, Strokkur erupts, and your jaw drops. I can guarantee that by the time you do a full lap, you’ll experience Strokkur‘s eruption several times. It was mesmerizing. In fact, when we passed Geysir returning from Gulfoss the next day I wanted to stop and see it again.
Brúarfoss
Yet another waterfall where adding “parking lot” into Google Maps would have helped, we eventually got to Brúarfoss. Just a short walk from the car, this waterfall was very pretty but down a scary-looking icy hill leading to a bridge, so we got spooked and retreated. Plus, by the time we got there, it was getting dark and starting to snow. Enter what became the beginning of our first Icelandic storm.
Efstidalur II Ice Creamery And Farm
As the snow started falling we headed to our hotel with a stop at the famous Efstidalur II for dinner. Here we had the most lovely meal and delicious homemade ice cream. We loved reading about the history of this 400-year-old family-owned farm and enjoyed its endless soup bar. My kids loved watching the cows graze inside the barn as we dined above them.
Blue View Cabins
It’s safe to say that all five of us were looking forward to our private cabin at Blue View Cabins. Not to mention our private geothermal heated hot tub!
The location was amazing and the cabin was spacious enough for us to stretch out. We had a full kitchen, two bedrooms, a pull-out sofa, a huge bathroom, and a 360-degree view of the area.
This would have been the most incredible place to see the Northern Lights… if it wasn’t for the storm. Blue View thought of everything including a door from the bathroom to the hot tub to keep the cabin dry. This was our favorite hotel of the trip and not just because they put chocolates on our pillows.
Icelandic Weather
Our first Golden Circle day was filled with absolutely gorgeous weather. However, we woke up to quite the opposite on day two. Before us was a famous Icelandic storm.
After a sad morning of canceled tours plus lots of snow and rain, we made lemonade and pivoted our day. So is life in Iceland I’m told. Shout out to what could have been at Horseback Riding Tours South Iceland and Sleipnir Tours Monster Truck Glacier Tour.
The Magical Land of Friðheimar
Friðheimar tomato farm is one of the most popular and beloved places in Iceland. Rising from the land of the Golden Circle you’ll find the huge greenhouses of Friðheimar and her cool older sister Vinstofa Fridheima. This realized family-run dream started in the 90s (like everything cool) and combined growing tomatoes and raising horses. We were lucky to meet Dóróthea who taught us about the history and current status of their incredible tomato empire.
She shared a few cool things. The first was their tomatoes are sold all over Iceland (with a family picture inside the clamshell “because it’s nice to see a friendly face”). Next, with frequent trucks picking them up you can eat a tomato in Reykjavík the same day its harvested. Lastly, she returned to create Vinstofa Fridheima (Friðheimar’s Wine Bar) – a grape leaf-decorated bistro and event space availing the restaurant’s famous tomato soup, tomato beer, and local treats to visitors throughout the afternoon and evening.
The story was fantastic, the food was fantastic, the colors and tomatoes were fantastic, and Friðheimar was absolute perfection. Be sure to make a reservation as they fill up all year long.
Secret Lagoon – Gamla Laugin
After our very delicious lunch, we headed to the Secret Lagoon in the pouring rain. The wonderful manager of the Friðheimar Wine Bar assured me this was the Icelandic thing to do. When the weather is bad, they head to the water. As the rain dripped and dropped around us we stayed warm in this outdoor lagoon – the oldest pool in Iceland. I loved the feeling of the ocean sand/little rock mixture under my feet at the bottom of the pool.
Gullfoss Waterfall
For seventeen years I’ve wanted to visit Iceland because of my friend’s picture of Gullfoss waterfall. Without a doubt finally seeing it was surreal. However, it was raining and snowing and looked different in the winter. But again, I’m told so is Iceland. The tremendous size, beauty, and power of Gullfoss could not be curtailed by the weather. Thankfully we had our Frogg Toggs rain pants on to save the day.
Gullfoss Visitor Center’s Famous Lamb Soup And Hot Chocolate
Even more exciting than the waterfall itself was the Gulfoss visitor center and cafe. I read so many positive reviews of their famous lamb soup, I was counting down the seconds to try it. It did not disappoint. Seated in their beautiful dining room, the family-size tureen of soup arrived and I may have wept.
As we ladled it out, we saw chunks of lamb, potatoes, and onions, plus more heavenly goodness tasting better than it looked.
It was a very happy silver lining to a day filled with many weather-related twists and turns. In fact, what else does one need after a difficult day than a steaming bowl of hearty soup? How about the most incredible hot chocolate on Earth? I’m not sure how they made it so good, but thankfully our day ended with warm happy bellies.
The Beginning Of The End
Our final day in Iceland combined the last Golden Circle stops, returning the car to Reykjavík, and catching Flybus to the airport. The weather was crazy all morning going from sun to rain to snow (repeat). We experienced the joy (fear?) of driving through all of it ending our Icelandic adventure as authentically as possible!
Faxafoss – Faxi Waterfall
Faxi waterfall was the perfect stop on our way back to Reykjavík. It’s visible from the parking lot or you can walk down the easy trail for a closer look. A bit off the beaten path and known as Gulfoss’ kid sister, Faxi was both beautiful and worth a stop.
Kerið – Kerid Crater
With the snow streaming down and our flight a few hours away, Kerid Crater was the last scenic stop on our Icelandic family vacation. Located right off the road on they way back to Reykjavík, I jumped out of the car, paid my small admission fee, and ran up the hill to take a look. While I didn’t have time to walk around the volcanic crater, it was super cool to see. A tour guide told us that years ago Iceland’s most famous export – Björk – did a concert there while floating on a raft in the middle of the lake. I’m glad we stopped. It was both worth the ten minutes (even in the snow) and a fantastic way to end our trip.
Bye Golden Circle, Bye Iceland
Iceland was an incredibly unique country filled with stunning nature, delicious food, and friendly people. I loved visiting in the winter but instead of feeling satisfied to finally complete this decades-long bucket list trip, it just made me want to return in the summer and see it differently. It was sad to say goodbye, but we enjoyed one last Skyr, refilled our waters, and headed back to the States.
The Mint Chip Mama’s Iceland Know Before You Go Tips Work for Winter in Iceland and Summer in Iceland:
Be sure to check out The Mint Chip Mama‘s entire Family Friendly Iceland Vacation series, my travel gear, and my full itinerary here where you can book everything directly in one place!
Part 1: Iceland – Know Before You Go, Part 2: What To Pack For Iceland, Part 3: Reykjavík, Part 4: South Iceland & West Iceland, Part 5: The Golden Circle
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